Use this step by step tutorial to create a roll-up cosmetics case with three interior zipper pockets. The pockets and interior lining are constructed with vinyl so contents can be seen at a glance and spills are easily wiped away.
Fabrics Needed
Outside fabric 25cm
Lining fabric 25cm
Bias Binding One fat quarter
Zipper binding One fat quarter or scraps
8 gauge clear vinyl 25cm
Materials Needed
Legacy L-100R Vinyl Fuse™ Gloss 1 package
Legacy L-987 Fusible Fleece White 25cm
20cm (8”) zipper 3
Thread
Glue stick (optional)
Poly-resin snaps One per bag
Tools Needed
Sewing machine and related supplies
Rotary cutter and related supplies
Snap Press (optional)
Make the Bias Binding Using A Mat as a Ruler
Step 1. Place the fat quarter of binding fabric on a cutting mat with the long side across the width.
Step 2. Bring the bottom left corner up to the top right edge. Align the fabric at the top as shown. There will be excess fabric on the bottom layer.
NOTE: For left handed people, fold up the bottom right corner to the top edge. The excess fabric will be on the left side.
Step 3. Rotate the folded piece to the left so the fold rests upon a line on your cutting mat.
NOTE: For left handed people, rotate the folded piece to the right.
Step 4. Using the far right point as the start, measure in 4” and cut off this piece. Discard. Move left and cut a 2½“ strip. Repeat until fat quarter is all cut.
NOTE: For left handed people, use the far left point as the start and move to the right.
Step 5. Place two strips right sides together and at a 90° angle as shown.
Step 6. Sew a diagonal seam. This seam can be marked with a fabric pen if preferred.
Step 7. Sew all strips together. Trim seams to ¼”.
Step 8. Press all seams open.
Step 9. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press. Set binding aside.
Cut Remaining Fabric
Step 10. Cut one 9” x 21½“ rectangle each from the outer fabric, the lining fabric and the Vinyl Fuse™ Gloss. Cut two 9” x 21½” rectangles from the Fusible Fleece.
Step 11. Cut six 2” x 10” rectangles from the zipper binding fabric.
Step 12. Cut three 10” x 4½” rectangles from the 8-gauge clear vinyl.
Prepare the Outer and Lining Fabric of Cosmetics Bag
Step 13. Place one rectangle of Fusible Fleece White against the wrong side of the outer and lining bag fabric rectangles. Fuse following manufacturer’s instructions.
Step 14. Fuse the Vinyl Fuse™ Gloss to the front side of the lining following manufacturer’s instructions.
Making the Flap
Step 15. Trim the outer fabric and the lining pieces to 8½” x 21½”. Print the flap template found on Page 16 and cut out. Place the template on one end of the outer fabric and cut around the flap end. Repeat with lining fabric.
HINT: To make sure directional fabrics are aligned in the correct way, place both pieces wrong sides together and do a ‘test roll’ to double check that the fabric faces desired direction.
The outer fabric will roll down, so directional prints will face opposite on the lining and outer pieces.
When unrolled, the rounded edge will be at the top.
Make Zipper Binding
Step 16. Fold the six 2” x 10” pieces in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press.
Step 17. Unfold and then bring the long edges in to meet the center crease. Press again.
Step 18. Refold on the original crease and press again.
Create the Vinyl Zipper Pockets
Step 19. This step will use the three 10” x 4½” vinyl rectangles and ve of the zipper bindings just created.
Step 20. Using one vinyl piece, tuck the 10” side into the opening of one zipper binding. Make sure the vinyl edge is snug against the fold of the binding.
Step 21. Sew the edge of the binding to the vinyl using a 1⁄8” seam allowance. Pinning the vinyl can leave holes so instead push on the vinyl piece while sewing to keep it tucked into the binding.
Optional: Use a dab of a glue stick inside the binding to hold everything in place.
Step 22. Repeat these steps until there are two pieces with binding on both the top and bottom and one piece with a single binding as shown in photo.
Attaching zippers to the pockets
Step 23. Zippers will be added to the top of pocket 1, inbetween
pockets 1 and 2, and inbetween pockets 2 and 3.
Step 24. Start with the middle pocket piece (binding on both sides) and place the zipper binding on a zipper with the side of the binding close to the teeth of the zipper. There will be some overhang of vinyl which will be trimmed down in a later step.
Step 25. Pin, use a glue stick, or hold the pieces steady and stitch using a 1⁄8” seam allowance next to the zipper teeth. Use a zipper foot or a walking foot.
Step 26. The first zipper will appear similar to the photo. As progress is continued, make sure to line up the zippers on each pocket. For example, have all zippers start on the left edge as shown.
Step 27. Match up the top pocket piece (binding on both edges) with the unfinished portion of the zipper just sewn. Start on the zipper stop side and stitch using a 1⁄8” seam allowance.
Always have the unsewn vinyl piece on the left side. Align the vinyl pieces.
Step 28. Add a zipper to the top and bottom of the unit just made. (Top of the first pocket and bottom of the second pocket) Make sure the pulls are aligned in the same direction and stitch the zippers as in the previous steps.
Step 29. Attach the bottom pocket (only 1 side of binding).
Step 30. To finish the zipper on the top pocket, sew the remaining binding strip closed with a 1⁄8” seam allowance. Place the strip atop the zipper in the same manner as the pockets and stitch in place using a 1⁄8” seam allowance.
Attach the Zipper Panel to the Lining
Step 31. The zipper panel needs to be sized to 8½” x 21½”. Allow enough room for a ¼” seam allowance around the zipper stops on both ends.
Step 32. Place the zipper panel on the right side of the lining piece. Align the bottom edges. The rounded corner will be at the top. Pin the zipper panel to the lining through the top part of each zipper binding as shown.
Step 33. Sew the top binding pieces where they were pinned on each zipper pocket to the lining following the previous stitching line. This separates the pockets.
Placing the Snap
Step 34. Find the center point on the outer fabric piece. Measure
up 9” from the bottom (square end) of the bag.
Make a mark. This is where the snap will push through.
Step 35. Using a snap cap (flat with point), push through the wrong side on the mark that was made so the point is coming out on the right side.
Step 36. Now place a ‘stud’ (the part of the snap with a raised circle) and place the flat back on top of the point that was just pushed through. Follow the plier/press instructions and using the opposing die (socket), apply this snap with gentle pressure.
Basting the Case
Step 37. Place the outer and lining pieces together with wrong sides facing. Baste around the perimeter using a 1⁄8” seam allowance.
Adding the Binding
Step 38. Open the zippers to the middle of the bag. Leaving a 12” tail, place the binding on the lining side just above the bottom pocket. Stitch the binding to the bag using a ¼” seam allowance. Miter the corners as if binding a quilt. Ease around the curves of the flap. Stop a few inches past the second curve and backstitch leaving a tail.
Step 39. The curve of the binding will stand up. This is normal.
Step 40. Place the bag on a flat surface with the flap to the left. Place the unstitched binding on the right against the bag.
Step 41. Trim this side of the binding to the middle of the second pocket.
Step 42. Place the unstitched binding on the left on top of the binding just trimmed.
Step 43. Measure so that the top binding overlaps the bottom by 2” and trim off the excess.
Step 44. Open the top binding piece with the right side facing up and then place the bottom binding piece face down on top of it at a 90° angle just like in the binding construction. Pin to hold.
Step 45. Stitch a diagonal seam to connect the two pieces. Test to make sure it fits before trimming.
Step 46. Once the binding fits when placed against the bag, trim the seam allowance of the miter to ¼” and line up on the bag. Finish stitching the binding down using a 1/4” seam allowance, backstitching at the start and stop point of the previous stitching.
Step 47. Trim threads and fold the binding over to the outer side. Hand stitch the binding down to the outer side with small stitches.
Adding The Last Snap
Step 48. Add the remaining snap to the flap end of the bag, ½” in and centered. Push a snap cap through the outer bag towards the lining. Add a socket cap (sunken circle) in the same manner as before and secure the snap using the stud die.
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